How to Remove Dark Circles: What Works and What's a Myth
Share
Dark circles have several different causes, including pigment, thin skin and shadows, so what works depends on which one you have, and no cream can fix them all.
Quick answer: Dark circles can come from extra pigment, from thin skin that lets blood vessels show through, or from shadows cast by the shape of your face, and many people have a mix. Creams can help with pigment, while fillers or surgery are what work for hollows, so work out your type before spending money. Daily sunscreen, gentle handling and patience help every type. See a dermatologist if the darkness appears suddenly, affects only one side, or comes with swelling.
Almost everyone who has dark circles has been told the same things: sleep more, drink more water, try a cream. When those fail, it is usually because the advice assumes one cause, and there are several. Matching the fix to the cause is what saves time and money.
The causes of dark circles
Doctors who have reviewed the research describe a handful of causes, and note that most people have more than one at once.1 The main ones are:
- Excess pigment. Extra melanin in the lower eyelid skin gives a brown or greyish tone.1
- Thin, translucent skin. The skin under the eyes is thin, so the muscle and blood vessels beneath can show through as a bluish or purplish tint.1
- Shadows from facial structure. Skin laxity, a tear trough hollow or bulging fat pads can cast a shadow that looks like darkness.12
A rough way to tell them apart is by colour and by light. A brown tone suggests pigment, a blue or purple tint suggests thin skin over vessels, and a darkness that changes when you tilt your head or move toward a light suggests a shadow. These are rough guides and not a diagnosis, so a dermatologist can tell you for certain.
What works for each cause
A systematic review of 39 studies found that different treatments suit different causes, and that the quality of the evidence overall is limited.3
- Pigment. Topical creams and chemical peels are useful for pigment-based dark circles.3
- Volume loss and hollows. Soft tissue fillers and fat grafting work best when the cause is volume loss.3
- Loose skin. Blepharoplasty, a surgical procedure, works best when excess skin laxity is the main problem.3
- Mixed causes. Lasers were mildly to moderately helpful for both vascular and pigment types.3
Notice that every option for hollows or loose skin is a clinical procedure. A cream cannot replace volume or tighten skin, however well it is marketed.
Vitamin C under the eyes: what one small trial found
Vitamin C is a common ingredient in under-eye products, so it is worth knowing what the evidence actually shows. In a small trial, 14 people with dark circles used a 10% sodium ascorbate lotion on one side of the face and a plain base on the other for six months.4
- The treated side showed a significantly smaller change in the redness index than the plain-base side.
- The eyelid skin tended to be thicker on the treated side, but that difference was not statistically significant.
- A second form, ascorbic acid glucoside, showed no significant differences from the plain base.
The researchers suggested that sodium ascorbate may help by thickening the eyelid skin and concealing dark colour caused by congested blood.4 With only 14 participants, this is early evidence and not proof, and it applies to that specific form and strength.
Keep in mind
Be gentle. Rubbing, pulling and scratching the skin under your eyes irritates a very thin area, so cleanse, moisturise and remove makeup without dragging the skin.
Myths worth dropping
- "It is just lack of sleep." The causes described in the research are pigment, thin skin and facial structure, and extra sleep does not change any of them.12
- "Drinking more water will clear them." None of the causes above is a water problem.
- "Cucumber or potato slices fade them." A cold slice may feel soothing, but there is no research showing it changes pigment or structure.
- "A good eye cream will fill the hollows." For volume loss, the treatments with the best results are fillers and fat grafting.3
- "Scrubbing or strong acids under the eyes will lighten them." Irritating this thin skin can make the area look worse.
A gentle routine around the eyes
- Cleanse gently with a mild cleanser and lukewarm water, and remove eye makeup without rubbing.
- Moisturise with a plain moisturiser, patting it on instead of dragging.
- Protect from the sun. Use broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning and wear sunglasses outdoors, since sun can darken pigment.
- Be patient with actives. Introduce one product at a time, patch test first, and follow the directions on the pack for use near the eyes.
Dark circles by cause
| Type | What it looks like | What helps |
|---|---|---|
| Pigment | Brown or greyish tone | Topical creams and chemical peels, plus daily sunscreen3 |
| Thin skin over vessels | Blue or purple tint | Early evidence for vitamin C in one small trial4; lasers have helped some people3 |
| Hollows and volume loss | A shadow that shifts with light | Fillers or fat grafting from a specialist3 |
| Loose skin | Sagging or puffiness under the eye | Surgery (blepharoplasty) when skin laxity is the main cause3 |
Frequently asked questions
Can dark circles be removed permanently?
It depends on the cause. Pigment can lighten with the right topical care and sun protection, while hollows and loose skin need clinical procedures, and some of those are not permanent either. A dermatologist can tell you what is realistic for your type.3
Do eye creams work for dark circles?
For pigment-based dark circles, topical creams are useful.3 For hollows or loose skin, no cream can replace volume or tighten skin.
Does vitamin C help dark circles?
There is early evidence. In one small trial of 14 people, a 10% sodium ascorbate lotion reduced the change in redness over six months, while a different vitamin C form showed no difference.4 More research is needed.
Do dark circles mean I am unwell?
Usually not. Dark circles are generally a cosmetic concern.1 See a doctor if the darkness appears suddenly, affects one side only, or comes with swelling or pain.
Are home remedies like cucumber or tea bags worth trying?
They may feel soothing, but there is no research showing they change pigment, thin skin or facial structure. Gentle care and sunscreen matter more.
When should I see a dermatologist?
If the circles are getting darker, if you are unsure of the cause, or if you are considering a procedure such as fillers or peels. A specialist can match the treatment to the cause.2
References
- Roh MR et al. Infraorbital dark circles: definition, causes, and treatment options. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35(8):1163-71. PMID 19469797.
- Vrcek I et al. Infraorbital Dark Circles: A Review of the Pathogenesis, Evaluation and Treatment. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2016;9(2):65-72. PMID 27398005.
- Michelle L et al. Treatments of Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Systematic Review. Dermatol Surg. 2021;47(1):70-74. PMID 32740208.
- Ohshima H et al. Effects of vitamin C on dark circles of the lower eyelids: quantitative evaluation using image analysis and echogram. Skin Res Technol. 2009;15(2):214-7. PMID 19626722.
This article is for general information and is not medical advice. Dark circles that appear suddenly, affect one side or come with swelling should be assessed by a doctor. Patch test new skincare products, and take care to follow the directions on any product used near the eyes.
